Blog 4 June 2022 - Margaret River - Geraldton WA

OMG, we live in a beautiful country! At times I can find so many things to moan about, but the beauty enforces a mindfulness that is enriching, full of wonder and divine!

I left you all at Margaret River in the previous blog. I had always been intrigued to see this place having heard tales of the wonderous surfing conditions to be had there when that mode of conversation was of interest to my young mind! It is a gorgeous place – very trendy! So of course, as you can imagine I fit right in!! It has a lovely shopping strip filled with coffee shops and galleries amongst a leafy setting. The more utilitarian shops and sundries such as supermarkets and the post office are tastefully tucked away so as not to affect us trendies in any negative way. I was so lucky to happen upon a couple in a coffee shop who were in the mood for conversation and with them I learned so much about the area and Margaret River. The are gorgeous caves filled with stalactites and stalagmites tastefully lit (actually just like Buchan Caves) and of course the surf beaches. The couple did warn me that they waves were ‘heavy’. I have no idea what that means and neither did the couple, but I did wonder if that is why there are no major surfing competitions in this part of the world.

I was determined to venture out and see these famous waves and to my naïve eye they looked pretty and tranquil but did not seem to be anything spectacular. That did not stop surfers of all ages, shapes, and sizes wet suited up having a go! It was funny to observe that their women folk seemed to be watching from the shore – it did make me wonder if the culture so beautifully captured in Puberty Blues has ever left the surfing fraternity. It was fun to watch. One fellow even emerged from the water with his surfboard in 3 – 4 pieces. It was only when I was exploring the coast some more when I came upon a monument to a young man who had been ‘taken’ – read ‘eaten’ by a shark. It was then when I thought back to the surfboard in pieces and I shuddered.

I had decided to do a small loop in the western corner of this gorgeous part of the world. The weather had turned to rain, relentless rain, in Margaret River. I had worried that going south again the weather would be worse and nearly didn’t bother. I am so glad I decided to risk it and my summation about the potential weather was completely erroneous – so much nicer than Margaret River!

The forests in this part of the world are ASTOUNDING! Since crossing into Western Australia, I had predominantly encountered Blue Gum forests which I have to say although pretty the Blue Gum is a bit on the scrawny side. They even have plantations of Blue Gums that they cultivate for the wood chipping industry. But the further south I went the more awesome the arboristic feast! The trees simply become bigger, and bigger and bigger!

I landed in Denmark! No not downtown Copenhagen but a tiny little town in the sterling mountains. From there I went to explore what they call the ‘Valley of the Giants’. I was simply in awe! It had the feeling of walking into a cathedral the atmosphere almost invited a benediction. These absolutely gigantic eucalypts are so large that they are naturally buttressed and over time (read hundreds of years) the base of the truck hollows out. They make the claim that these eucalypts only grow in this tiny little corner of the world. (But I need my colleagues from the Gippsland diaspora here. I am sure there was a book of photos many years ago of the Gippsland region that had a photo of a gigantic stump that a family was living in during the depression. Does anyone else remember that??).

Following this feast Bingley and I headed determinably north to chase the sun! First destination Bunbury for an overnight stop then on to Mandurah just a stones throw from Perth. This was an uneventful but oh so relaxing stop over before heading into the beyond following Perth. I needed to regroup knowing that I would be heading onto more remote locations with town centres spread much further apart along the beautiful Indian Ocean.

And what a drive it is! There is to my left the greenest of fields with enormous dunes at there perimeter. Every so often going over a rise you glimpse the azure of this beautiful ocean. Gone are the mulga trees and in their stead are what I call tussock trees – I know they have a fancy name but I cannot remember it – at times they clump together resembling so many women in their crinolines gossiping at a ball on a vivid green dance floor! It is an extra ordinary sight! The ocean glistens in the sunlight with a light that only Monet himself could do justice to. The little towns dotted along the coast line are welcoming and in hiatus waiting for school holidays and when you stop and listen you can hear the gentle thudding of the ocean.

It is all an environment that reminds you constantly of your insignificance in the world you are surrounded by an environment that moves onward to its own powerful rhythm.

Bingley and I are currently just outside Geraldton. The weather is improved enormously and in a few days we will point towards Carnarvon – I can’t wait